用蓝靛草加工成蓝靛,用蓝靛作染料,用土碱、烧酒、石灰、牛皮胶作辅料,经过手工操作,把布染成月白、月蓝、蓝、深蓝、浅灰、深灰、青等色。各地除专业染房(大染缸)外,几乎每户都有小染缸,随时染蓝、青棉线和青布。小染缸自染的青布,最后用犁树皮或刺犁树熬水上浆,色泽鲜艳,保色期长。布依族妇女喜青色,如青裤子、青围腰、青挞肩、青袖口。各色花帕、花垫单总少不了“青色”,姑娘出嫁少不了一床青被褥。老人寿衣少不了一件长衫、青上装。小孩的背带、男女老幼穿的布鞋帮也是青布做成。所以土法靛染工艺在贞丰北盘江流域布依族地区一代一代沿袭下来。用蓝靛草加工成蓝靛,用蓝靛作染料,用土碱、烧酒、石灰、牛皮胶作辅料,经过手工操作,把布染成月白、月蓝、蓝、深蓝、浅灰、深灰、青等色。
各地除专业染房(大染缸)外,几乎每户都有小染缸,随时染蓝、青棉线和青布。小染缸自染的青布,最后用犁树皮或刺犁树熬水上浆,色泽鲜艳,保色期长。布依族妇女喜青色,如青裤子、青围腰、青挞肩、青袖口。各色花帕、花垫单总少不了“青色”,姑娘出嫁少不了一床青被褥。老人寿衣少不了一件长衫、青上装。小孩的背带、男女老幼穿的布鞋帮也是青布做成。所以土法靛染工艺在贞丰北盘江流域布依族地区一代一代沿袭下来。
靛染,大致过程为:制靛——漂白——染布。靛,即蓝靛或靛泥,是用一种名为“蓝靛草”的草本植物制成。蓝靛草,在布依族聚居地区都有栽种。一般用插栽法插栽,春末出苗,七月割蓝制靛,制靛时,叶茎多的入窑,叶茎少的放入桶或缸(土陶缸)里,用水浸泡七天,泡出蓝汁。每一石蓝汁浆液加入石灰五升,搅打后,蓝靛凝结;水静止,蓝静沉积于水底,完成制作,即得染布原料——蓝靛。
漂白是布依族靛染的第一道工序。漂白时,布依族妇女是用早晨的阳光和露水进行漂白的古老方法。布依妇女晒布多在天气晴朗有露的早晨6点半至7点太阳升起之前,把布匹平整地铺在草坪上,整个布面才会在同一时间被朝露浸湿,这样晒干的布面色调才一致。晒至中午布依妇女们将晒干的布收回家中折放好,这样连续晒数天(一般为七至十天),直到布面洁白为止。这样漂白后,白布在靛染时容易上色,经久耐用。
另外,布依族妇女还掌握一种更为原始特的漂白方法——利用新鲜牛屎作为漂白原料,漂白时,先用适量的新鲜牛屎放在木桶里加水搅匀,然后放入白布进行翻搅,把布取出摊在阳光下晒,待布晒至半干后拿到河边进行揉搓冲洗,布料很快变白。蓝靛经一定的技术处理,可把布染成深蓝、中兰、浅兰、灰、深灰、青、月白等各种色道。
染布分为大缸染和小缸染。
大缸靛染,先把蓝靛放进大染缸,根据布料多少和所染颜色,按一定比例加入适量的水,石灰、自制白酒及土碱等原料,经过一定时间的化学反应再放入白布,要经多次取放和漂洗。一般是每隔2天取出漂洗一次,至少要到放漂洗8次以上,浸染16天以上。且每次取出布料漂洗后再放入染缸时,都要按所染颜色的需要添加一定比例的水、蓝靛、石灰、自制白酒及土碱,同样要添加8次以上不同比例的原料,直到布已染成所需的颜色,再用牛皮熬成的牛皮胶上在色布上,用石滚把染成上胶的布滚平,直至光亮即为成品靛染布料。
小缸靛染,用小缸染青布,先把蓝靛放进小染缸,加适量的水,再按一定比例加入适量的石灰、土碱和自烤的白酒等原料。经一定时间的化学变化后,把用清水煮过的白布(通常煮1小时左右)放入染缸。从布料下缸的当天起,每天取放三次,三天漂洗一次,这叫头风。通常要浸染三到四风才能达到“上药”的程度。小缸染青布从头风到染四风,要取放8次以上,浸染16天以上。在每天晚上夜深入人静时,按一桃水五钱白灰、半斤蓝靛、二两自烤米酒的比例将原料添入染缸。每隔二天添加自制土碱、白灰各一两。布料经上述时间和方法靛染后,可取出上药。用涩梨皮在清水中煮熬5个小时左右熬出紫红色的水汁,将布料放入紫色水汁中浸染一遍后取出晒干,再次放入紫色水汁中浸染,同样每天取放漂洗三次,浸染三天后,取出晒干然后上浆,即用野生“白矶”粉末加入紫色水汁中搅匀后将晒干的布料全面浸湿上色,待布料上色后取出晾至半干,将半干的布料放于青石板,用专用的锤布棒(长1500px,宽250px)锤一小时左右,将布料锤至半蔫,然后展开晾干,晾干后将布料折叠成块状再用锤布棒锤打一小时左右,直至布料薄平。
靛染的青布,虽经日晒雨淋,也不会褪色。小缸染以母女传承方式沿袭。贞丰布依族靛染技艺主要是家庭,母女传承的方式沿袭。大缸染传承人有罗国梁,系罗大全之子,初中文化,1946年生,住前一村一组,在家务农;罗安绪,系罗国梁之子,罗大全之孙,1976年生,初中文化,在家务农。小染缸传承人有王明珍,1954年生,住纳核村五组,在家务农。靛染作为布依族服饰布料的色彩染制技艺,其历史源远流长,靛染应用广泛,流传久远。用蓝靛作染料,用土碱、烧酒、石灰、中皮胶作辅料,所有靛染原料都用自然材料加工而成。贞丰布依族靛染工艺流程复杂,每道工艺的细腻程度和要求极高,蕴涵着丰富的科学和文化价值。
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